What is Colorist's Connect?

Introducing a great new resource to answer your technical color questions… Colorist’s Connect from Product Club. Send us your questions, and you’ll receive an email response from one of Product Club’s educators within 7-10 days and we’ll also share the Q&A with other colorists.

Product Club’s mission is to help you be more successful by providing you with superior products and tools you use every day in the salon. Colorist’s Connect is another tool that is designed to help you be the best you can be.

GET ANSWERS TO YOUR QUESTIONS ABOUT COLOR
It’s simple, just email your
questions to:
info@productclub.com

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Q: Many of my clients have short hair, what are some foiling techniques I could use?

A: For your clients with short hair, there are great techniques on both the Art of Highlighting Volume 3 and Art of Highlighting Volume 4 - Collector's Edition.

Working with either 5x5 foil, roll foil torn to length, or thermal wraps cut to a shorter length, begin at the hairline and take diagonal sections.  if the hair is extremely short, apply a pomade to the forehead and lay a wrap directly on top of the forehead.  Hold the hair away from the face, using a tail comb, pick out some strands that you want to highlight.  apply your product of choice to the hair and the wrap, then lay another wrap directly over the previous (no need to fold).

Next take a slice of hair that you want to leave uncolored and apply a conditioner to the hair and wrap,  lay another wrap over and go back to "weaving" strands and alternating slices and weaves.  

This technique works great with diagonal back sections. Hope this helps.

- Melissa Johnson, Product Club Educator

Q: The majority of my clientele have massively thick, long hair. Can you suggest a foil technique that will give a "full head foil" appearance without spending 1 to 1 1/2 hours applying foils?

A: There are a lot of different ways that I like to address this issue, I too do a lot of partials or half heads, even when the client is booked for a half I will usually will place a few around the nape so it doesn't appear so dark and this way it is easier to address a full head when needed.

Another thing I like to do when doing a full head, I will do the half/partial as usual with foil and because I like having some depth in the back I will usually paint on highlights or balayge to help make it look soft and also it is a effective easy way to approach a full head.

- Rachel Bodt, Product Club Educator

Q: I do a lot of Partial head foils with backdrop color underneath; should I apply foils or backdrop color first?

A: Try Product Club's Beyond Basic Foiling Volume 1 DVD for a beautiful way to approach a half head. It has a bunch of creative twists on traditional wrapping patterns to keep color interesting for you. You may also want to try these two other DVDs from Product Club - iFoil in Color or The Art of Highlighting - Volume 3. You can see sample clips from each of the videos, if you follow the links provided.

Don't be afraid to combine different techniques on one head of hair. I think the best place to try new techniques is the back of the head and with some depth wanting to be shown you have a little more lee way.

- Rachel Bodt, Product Club Educator

Q: I have your color boards, but don't know how to use them. Any tips??

A: In general, foil boards can help you place foil as close to scalp as possible, and can provide support beneath the foil for all haircoloring applications, including those specialized techniques, where color is not applied at the root. Once again try some of the videos as mentioned above, particularly Technique 1: Soft Dimensions from Beyond Basic Foiling Volume 1. We use the foil boards in this technique.

P.S. Great questions every one!

- Rachel Bodt, Product Club Educator

Q: Why are my foils bleeding?

A: Bleeding foils are the number one complaint of the colorist. It's usually a bunch of little things that cause this disaster or nuisance depending on where they are! My suggestion comes in multiple parts. Take less thick slices or weaves. If you're looking for a stronger color statement do several back to back foils instead of one big thick one. Be aware how much color or lightener you put on the first half inch of the hair strand off the scalp. This hair doesn't need a ton of product and too much can easily product a bleed as it moves outside the foil. Watch your tension on the hair as you put in the foil. A well placed secure foil can virtually eliminate these unsightly marks. Try one of our foils with a texture. The embossed foils have a nook and cranny texture that may help you with slippage, and our ready to use - pop up foils do too. Simply using the right foil for the job could make all the difference.

Q: Why is my color spotty?

A: Sometimes color isn't truly saturated in the hair strand. Watch your sectioning and make sure the color is penetrating the hairstrand. Try a densley populated brush. I like the color spike for this because the bristles are very hard and the pin tail is so thin that you can make fine subsections. Also try using the color board so that you can push the color through the strand completely. Using black gloves help keep you looking tidy (and less like an axe murderer!) while you pull the color through the strand. Color selection can come into play too. If your color is too thick try a gel. And always mix properly with a hand mixer or color whip. If you don't start with a well blended product your results don't stand a chance.

Q: How can I convince my clients to update their haircolor?

A: Usually it's best to let them come to the conclusion that it's time to change. I advise being ready when that happens. If you don't know what's current and how to achieve that look you are set up to fail. Check out our DVD's. They're killer for keeping you fresh.

Q: What brand of haircolor is the best?

A: The best brand of haircolor is the one you know inside and out. Study study study! If you know your product you can make it achieve what you need. Haircolor companies want you to succeed. See what resources they offer to help you learn. And take educated chances. No guts - no glory.