One Technique, Two Looks

August 18th, 2016

Incurvated Mane Lines with Toni & Brianna

It’s a hairstylist’s dream whenever a client says, “Do whatever you want.” That is exactly what model Brianna allowed us to do at Hush Salon, Philadelphia with the Product Club team. Her only request was to keep the color “low maintenance.” So, we opted to keep her roots darker (while still lifting the color a shade or so) which would offer her a softer grow out, with little or no line of demarcation, and brightening her up around her face and perimeter.
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I began with 4 incurvated sections, referencing Product Club’s Incurvated Mane Lines DVD, Volume 4 within their new Blueprint Highlighting series  ( a great new series that any haircolorist looking to up their coloring game needs to check out) To break it down: One incurvated section is in the apex with two on either side of the parietal ridge and one incurvated section lies across the crown from ear to ear.

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Section 1 was divided into 3 subsections 1A, 1B, and 1C. Starting at the bottom of sections of 1A and 1B, I used fine back-to-back slices to place foils diagonally back. Using two of Product Club’s feather brushes, Formula 1 was applied to the first two slices in the fuchsia embossed foils. Next, I brushed on Formula 2 from scalp to ends and placed in the periwinkle embossed foils moving up towards the crown.

Pro tip: using two different colored foils is a great way to keep track of multiple formulas while you work.
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Once subsections 1A and 1B were completed, I moved on to section 2, saving section 1C for later. Starting at the back of section 2, I moved towards the hairline by taking horizontal slices and then repeated the same back-to-back pattern of Formula 1 in two fuchsia embossed foils, followed by Formula 2 in a periwinkle embossed foil.

In sections 3 and 4, I repeated the same pattern starting from the back of the ear, moving towards the hairline, by fanning the foils around the ear. The foil placement will begin diagonally forward, but as the foils move around the ear, they become more vertical, finally finishing at the hairline with diagonal back foil placement.
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Last, I returned to subsection 1C and applied Formula 2 to the entire section and allowed to process for 35-40 minutes. Afterwards, I removed the foils, shampooed and lightly dried the hair. For best color results, I applied toner to Brianna’s hair using Formula 4 for no more than 10 minutes and then repeated: rinse, shampoo, condition… and then got to styling!

Pro tip: when working with excessively curly hair, lightly shampoo and towel dry the hair before you apply the color for maximum control. I also definitely recommend using embossed foils to better hold textured hair in place.

Check out Brianna’s before and after pics below, and watch her work her new hair! Be sure to leave a comment, and let us know what you think of her transformation, or share this post with a colorist who would love this technique.
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After photographing Brianna’s new hair all glammed up, we wanted to see how the effect of the highlights would change in a more casual, everyday style. She headed back into the salon, and Toni played with a different part, loosened up Brianna’s curls with her fingers, and styled a side bang.
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Which look did you love the most on Brianna? Let us know in the comments below!

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  • Allix Hannah

    The after images of Brianna look amazing, great job!